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Five days of frozen waterfalls, ice caves, and quiet roads in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula
Paul Austin is a creative director and author who freelances for Thumbwind Publications. His real passion and creative outlet is researching historical sites and people with fascinating stories. You can find most of this work on Michigan4You.
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As my girlfriend Michelle and I wrapped up the snowy Christmas season, there were no thoughts of beaches or palm trees on our minds (well, maybe in her mind). We both had five days off in mid-January set aside to make a 7-hour ride to the Winter Wonderland in Au Train, Michigan. The Superior Shoreline can be brutal this time of year, and by no means was this trip an exception!
Blue sheets of ice merge from Lake Huron in a gorgeous winter wonderland.
Our ride north from Detroit was smooth sailing until Highway 2 (after the Mackinaw Bridge). The snow didn't hit us too badly, but icy conditions kept my lead foot in check. We arrived at midnight Thursday to the Au Train River Cabins, a place we have stayed for three years now. We quickly heated up the cabin and crashed, ready to conquer the winter elements of an Upper Peninsula morning.
The Eben Ice Caves are big enough for people to walk through... not your average icicles from childhood.
Our first morning of vacation started with a -3 degree wind chill, but we were excited to be the first set of tracks at the Eben Ice Caves. Most of the pictures feature crowds, and we were looking to capture them in solitude. When we arrived at the trailhead at a private farm, it was obvious we would be alone on this trip. The wind was whipping snow sideways, covering any trail markings, but a quick door-knock with directions had us trekking through the snowy abyss.
Once we got into the woods, the path was a bit more obvious. The trail, which we presumed led to the caves, had come to an abrupt halt (almost a mile in), with no obvious path left in the new 4-5 inches of fresh powder. I scurried down to the river for a glimpse of the possible cave, but figured we should cut our losses since we were meeting with a friend at 1 pm. It was a disappointing hike back to the car, to say the least, much like the "walk of shame" on your local college campus any given Sunday morning.
The rugged terrain of the U.P.'s winter trails brings only a few out to play... We were more than happy to grasp the challenge.
Our failed ice cave mission was partially redeemed by some outstanding food. Michelle and I went to the Up North Lodge for lunch, a gorgeous wood-crafted lodge in the small town of Gwinn. The new building gives incoming patrons a definite "Yooper" vibe. We both got the perch basket special, and the meal was beyond our expectations. Dill batter and a huge portion still have us thinking about the meal from hundreds of miles south.
As you can see, I couldn't resist a bite before taking the picture of my dill-battered perch!
An inside look at Gwinn's Up North Lodge.
We met up with our friend Steve, of Arced Up Angling, to catch up on an evening of ice fishing at a local inland lake in the Marquette area. Steve guides aspiring anglers and out-of-town visitors for a variety of species throughout all four seasons. The frigid temps had slowed the fishing down, but we did still manage a few big bluegills. We also had either a monster pike or a walleye spool a set rod outside the shack before we got the chance to slow it down. Coming out just in time to grab a screaming reel with no brakes left us wondering about the one that got away.
Wrapping up a day of ice fishing with a snowy sunset by Marquette.
We always have an amazing time in the Marquette area, and a big part of that is owed to Steve and his local knowledge and entertaining stories. Our grand finale was an undisturbed northern night sky, lit with stars unseen from the Lower Peninsula... as the trip off the ice had me in awe.
Our night ended with a few beers and a trip to The Duck Pond Eatery in Christmas, about 15 minutes from our cottage. We had stumbled upon this place years ago and opted for the Whitefish Ruben. This particular sandwich has been a topic of conversation in the house ever since! Also, their smoked whitefish dip is another one of our rituals- the best I've ever had.
Waiting for flags to fly!
Wagner Falls was completely deserted, but it’s relatively easy to get to the first set of falls.
With hopes of avoiding another hiking mishap, my Michigan Waterfalls book by Phil Stagg was in hand to navigate us along some local frozen waterfalls. Our first stop was Wagner Falls, an easy-to-access set of 4 falls in the town of Munising. The parking lot was 1-2 feet deep with snow, so we walked from the road to the first set of falls, which were absolutely breathtaking! Not one to shy away from a challenge, I talked Michelle into hiking uphill to see the rest of the falls (not as easy an endeavor in the winter). It was clear we had been the first ones on the trail in a few days, and that feeling we had escaped the city set in at this very moment.
There are very few tree crossings I can resist! #wetfoot
Heading back through Munising, Alger Falls is a small roadside waterfall just a few hundred yards from Wagner Falls. The Yooper winter had these locked up in ice, yet it was still a beautiful sight.
A completely undisturbed Munising Falls, just after a fresh snow.
The view from Munising Falls, looking down the slope at Michelle on the viewing platform.
Munising Falls lies just outside of town, so these 5 area waterfalls (Munising, Alger, Tannery, Memorial, and Wagner) can be accessed efficiently to make a morning or evening trip. A short walk from the car to the boardwalk exposes Munising Falls, 50 feet of ice coming down from the cliffs leading to Superior. Munising Falls are quite the sight during winter, and the easy access makes them something not be overlooked.
The snow came flying, but all was fine under the cave at Memorial Falls. The hike is relatively short with some minor challenges in the winter.
Michelle is behind the frozen Tannery Falls, a uniquely Michigan experience!
Our last adventure in Munising was the Twin Falls hike, which included both Tannery and Memorial Falls. Parking is roadside, in a small subdivision on Nestor Street, with a sign giving hikers a heads-up. We initially walked up to Memorial and were greeted by ice climbers. The climbers made for some cool shots that put the falls in perspective. We also walked through the snow to Tannery Falls, where it was still flowing behind the giant frozen icicle on the ledge. Tannery was amazing, as you could walk behind the falls through an ice-covered cave.
We came across a couple of ice climbers at Memorial Falls.
Though similar to Twin Falls, this is a formation from the ice thaw, not an actual waterfall (by Memorial Falls).
The Twin Falls hike is bypassed by many, but I absolutely am in love with this short trail. The terrain is full of cliffs, ledges, valleys, and, of course, the two waterfalls. The best way I can put it: If The Lord of the Rings were to be filmed in Michigan, this area would absolutely be on the list of destinations. If you have already been to Twin Falls, check them out during the winter!
Michelle's presence shows just how impressive Tannery Falls are. The middle had broken through, so the water was coming down like a shower inside the fall.
On our way back to Au Train, we refueled with a stop at the Falling Rock Cafe and Bookstore. Michelle and I could have spent hours there, with hundreds of Upper Peninsula-themed books in the cozy wooden shop. Peppermint Mochas thawed our spirits in preparation for another frozen journey to the Eben Ice Caves.
Upon our arrival in Au Train, two growling stomachs indicated we probably should have ordered more than Java at the bookstore. No worries, as it was the perfect opportunity to eat at Wagners- a tiny German delicatessen and cafe. While Wagner's is known for their traditional pork schnitzel and sausage dishes, we opted for the pulled pork and blue cheese burger special. Delicious!
A look from inside Scott Falls between Munising and Au Train. Despite being relatively modest, these falls are accessible right from the road.
Before we could leave Wagner's, around 40 Ford Raptors came strolling through and parked at the gas station across the street. We were informed that this was the 2018 SnoBall, an annual event where the Great Lakes Raptor Excursions aligns Ford Raptor owners for the weekend to put their trucks through an ultimate two-track test on the U.P.'s desolate backroads.
Shunning a slight sense of inadequacy with all these Ford Raptors in the neighborhood, we puddled off in the Volkswagen SUV for round 2 at the Eben Ice Caves. This time, the parking was beyond capacity as expected on a Saturday afternoon. Counting snowmobiles, we witnessed from 70-80 vehicles lined up to embrace a Michigan winter wonder.
Michelle coming out of the ice caves... If times get tough, at least I know of some shelter in these woods!
Just like the movie "The Christmas Story" all over again...
The fresh-fallen snow that haunted us on Friday morning was now a victim of a million footprints, paving the way for us this time around. I must say there are two types of hikers at Eben: Those with ice cleats and those who fall continuously. Make no mistake, if this is an expedition you would like to enjoy, then cleats are a must! Despite dozens of bystanders enjoying the architecture, we were still able to get some legit pictures. The struggle of a few intoxicated snowmobilers without ice cleats added to the entertainment.
Eben attracts quite the weekend crowds, but the 1-1.5-mile hike is worth the stop!
On our way to Marquette, we decided to hit up Laughing Whitefish Falls- a place we fell in love with during October. To our dismay (or luck), we were fiercely warned by two other cars to back it up about a half mile. Turns out the parking lot had two vehicles trapped for some time, and we were next. We opted to avoid the extra mile walk through the snow and set the navigation to Presque Isle Park on Marquette's shores of Lake Superior.
A sunset from Presque Isle Park, absolutely no better way to close out a day of hikes
As redundant as it may be, the inner tourist in us came out when we set out to take pictures of the iconic Ore Dock. I feel like this exact picture floods the Instagram of every Lower Peninsula tourist who sets foot in Marquette. Guilty as charged, the structure is pretty darn amazing and symbolizes much of the town's foundation.
Michelle and I were welcomed with an iced over pier and a sunset over the Ore Dock once we got to Presque Isle Park... a breathtaking panorama.
Driving through the park became a challenge, as the whitetail deer came out to the streets like trick-or-treaters on Halloween. Despite signs exclaiming to not feed them, handfuls of corn mysteriously flew out of car windows like some kind of candy scramble.
Presque Isle is an absolute treasure in Marquette. The culture of this city is as amazing as the view.
With a successful second crack at the ice caves in the books and several waterfalls checked off, we headed back to Christmas for my favorite Upper Peninsula dinner: Foggy's Parmesan Whitefish! The parking lot resembled that of Eben's Ice Caves, with snowmobiles and SUVs outnumbering the town's citizens. Inside, the presumption was verified as it was an absolute madhouse! Undeterred by crowds, leaving without this epic dinner was not an option. The wait was brutal, service was rough, but the food was so delicious that I cannot wait to be back at Foggy's (I must note: Foggy's has always been top-notch prior to this outlier).
One of the locals from Presque Isle
The Dead River Falls were primarily covered in ice and snow, yet they were not lacking in beauty. Pools below the crest gave the perception of a hot spring, but we weren't testing the waters
Before our trip, the one consensus adventure Michelle and I agreed on was a hike to Dead River Falls. We were in awe of this landscape during peak autumn colors and wanted to explore it during the frozen months. Even with its treacherous hills and icy paths, the experience did not disappoint. Many of the falls were completely covered in ice and snow, supporting an alternative scenery from a photography standpoint.
At a closer look, you can see me on the crest of the falls... hoping I am on land
In person, the pools below the falls looked like hot springs, since they were the only visible water on the hike. Still, the icy cliffs made for a mesmerizing view. As usual, the place was devoid of tourists, and the trail was a bit more difficult for hikers. For a secluded, scenic Yooper experience, I always suggest this area for those willing to face a challenge.
Just in awe with the fresh snow at Dead River Falls... Now if only a darn moose would walk out!
With my Michigan Waterfalls book ready, we had time for another area waterfall- so we opted for the Lower Dead River Falls just on the outskirts of Marquette. Other than this book, there is not much information about these falls, as they are somewhat small but easy to access. The Lower Falls are a truly unique experience, with a giant wooden pipeline running through the park and over the river. This pipe creates an impressive ice cave of its own. The cement structures surrounding the river are covered in graffiti- not my ideal canvas, however, it does have a certain charm to it.
Hanging out at the lesser-known Lower Dead River Falls in Marquette. A place that is predominantly visited by locals, the ice caves alone make for a legit stop.
We went into Marquette for one last local feast at The Delft Bistro. NFL playoffs airing on a movie screen welcomed us, accompanied by the best fried pickles east of the Mississippi. We devoured M-43 beer and buttermilk fried chicken sandwiches (with bacon jam), as a bit of sadness surfaced, acknowledging our Marquette experience was winding down again.
The sunset facing Marquette's shoreline from the Ore Dock.
We packed up at Au Train and began our drive to Manistique, but not before making one last glimpse at Scott Falls. With this being a roadside waterfall, Scott Falls are effortless to appreciate! Winter's chill allowed us to step into a cave behind the iced-over stream for photos.
Scott Falls is something most just drive by without a second thought. Get out of the car and explore this mighty-mini set of falls the next time passing through Au Train!
The morning rush hour on the way to Big Springs.
Waking up in Manistique came with 6 inches of fresh snow greeting us, for the ultimate traveling experience (sarcasm). We set off for Kitch-iti-kipi in search of snowy panoramas of this freshwater oasis. The fresh powder made our rendezvous a little sketchy, but we were determined to get a view just a few others are willing to embrace.
Possibly one of my favorite pictures ever, this Bald Eagle shot out of a tree as we walked up and soared up the river. An amazing Yooper moment.
The roads were plowed just past Big Springs Bar, allowing us to park in front of the state park, which added a few hundred yards to the walk. Evidence of humans was non-existent. No signs of footprints or tire tracks made for a Big Springs welcome that exceeded our expectations. As we wandered up to the pond, swans and loons floated in the open water with a few fish jumping. Then, out of nowhere, a bald eagle shot out from a tall pine and through the connecting river, leaving us in astonishment!
Michelle is taking some shots of Kitch-iti-Kipi's aqua blue waters. If you haven't experienced it in the winter, make a point to do so!
The visualization of that eagle taking off in such a serene landscape will stick with Michelle and me for years to come. Blue waters of "The Kitch" ran through my head during the entire drive along U.S. 2 towards the bridge.
We arrived in Mackinaw City, primed for shots of the bridge from Old Mackinaw Point Lighthouse. Groups of people walked out to the jagged Lake Huron ice formations, as the aquamarine tint gave a surreal compliment to the Mighty Mac.
The raft at Kitch-iti-Kipi was freshly covered in snow during our visit, with plenty more falling.
Our trip was finalized after making a random stop at Mackinaw Pastie and Cookie Co, a small shop just off the highway south of the bridge. Believe it or not, they taste just as good below the bridge- giving the legendary pasty shops of the U.P. a run for their money. This newly discovered stop will become a mainstay in our northbound itinerary for future vacations.
No photo can give justice to the aqua blue ice chunks along Lake Huron. You'll just have to make the trip and see for yourself!
As we traveled southbound on I-75 to the concrete jungle, memories of frozen waterfalls, fresh fish, friendly locals, and bald eagles consumed my mind. A feeling of gratitude overwhelmed me, spending a weekend with an amazing woman who somehow agreed to this winter "vacation". We were sincerely blessed to freely roam these public lands, surrounded by an enigma humans can't quite pinpoint. I'll never understand why the U.P. summons my consciousness to the extent it does, but I wouldn't change that calling for anything.
