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A grounded guide to Michigan’s Copper Country and the Keweenaw Peninsula, with overlooks, hiking, food stops, and seasonal tips.
Paul Austin is a creative director and author who freelances for Thumbwind Publications. His real passion and creative outlet is researching historical sites and people with fascinating stories. You can find most of this work on Michigan4You.
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Five days of frozen waterfalls, ice caves, and quiet roads in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula
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The Copper Harbor overlook is a must-stop, no matter the season. Fall is just a bonus!
A land that is as stoic as its weather, the Keweenaw Peninsula was founded by those brave enough to risk their lives against all elements of nature. Today, a fraction remains in the eyes of those passing by, but the legends of this land carry on within the heart of these woods.
The classic "Keweenaw County Selfie".... so original!
There is something so mystic about Michigan's northernmost county. Some of the best Northern Lights in the lower 48. Bear country. The legendary ungroomed ski trails of Mount Bohemia. 300+ inches of snow annually. Copper mines. Two tracks that will bring any brave soul back down to earth. A peninsula with such a small population (2,100 citizens) ranks as Michigan's least populated county. This is the Keweenaw...
The Keweenaw is one of those places people don't think about until someone or something enlightens them to her enigma... then she becomes this obsessive mystery. I draw comparisons to the Keweenaw like the wait of seeing a wild bear or moose for the first time. Maybe its equivalent to a virgin encounter with the green lights of Aurora Borealis dancing across the northern sky.
Keweenaw Country is a land founded on mining, and what remains are structures of these ghost towns. With the exception of a few map dots along US 41/M-26, this is pure wilderness my friends!
Brockway Mountain had us feeling like we were in a completely different part of the world. Superior Shorelines and peak fall colors... a moment to remember.
On a recent mid-October trip (9+ hours away), Michelle and I checked weather forecasts daily to assess our "leafer" status on arrival. Unquestionably, it was as if we scratched off a $1000 lotto ticket!
We had heard of how breathtaking Brockway Mountain could be, but once again, our expectations were still blown away. The best part of the excursion was riding along the 7-mile road from the south entrance, with the first 2-3 miles being rather uneventful. It came to the point where we finally broke the silence and agreed, "This is it!!??” Little did we know, one of the most surreal views of our lives was ahead on the trip.
Michelle is directing traffic along Brockway Mountain Drive on a vivid fall day!
As the Volkswagen took us up each hill, the landscape grew increasingly spectacular. Finally, we came to a yield sign at the top of the "mountain". There were signs blowing in the 40-50 mph gusts, but it was all irrelevant. All we could do was bolt out of the car as if it were on fire... It was like being in a movie, as red, gold, and orange leaves complemented the northern pines of Lake Superior. With Lake Manganese to the south, along with Medora and Bailey Lakes to the west, the architecture was like nothing we had ever experienced. A view to the northwest offered a glimpse of a giant freighter on the angry Lake Superior.
As if this were not enough, our westbound route offered a few more lookouts. One of the highlights, while taking in the serene view,s included a Bald Eagle soaring in the heavy winds ('Merica!).
Brockway Mountain's lookout has some knowledge to drop on Y'all!
The cool part was that several giant freighters were in view waaaayyy offshore.
A Brockway Mountain view of a freighter ship out on the waters of Lake Superior. One week later, 28-foot waves were recorded in the area.
Our Brockway Mountain drive was sadly coming to a close, but not before getting a glimpse of Copper Harbor's metropolitan area (kidding, of course). All jokes aside, the Copper Harbor Lookout is an amazing stop any time of year. The splendid views of Michigan's northernmost town are second to none, and gave us motivation to explore what we could with the remaining daylight. We had stopped into Hunter's Point Park to cast for Splake (a Lake Trout/Brook Trout Hybrid), but the October winds weren't having it. As responsible road trippers, we called an audible and hit the Brickside Brewery in Downtown Copper Harbor. Perfect!
Sometimes, every moment is worth a thousand pictures....
The county seat of Keweenaw, unbeknownst to most, is Eagle River. As stated on our Waterfall page, Eagle River Falls greets travelers on the road and is a must-stop. While there, check out the famed Eagle River Timber Bridge- literally a work of art with decades of mining history behind it.
Between Eagle River and Copper Harbor sits the map dot of Eagle Harbor. Though not a natural wonder, I must mention the bright red lighthouse sitting on the bay. Any true enthusiast will agree that Eagle Harbor is one of the most iconic lighthouses on any Michigan shoreline. Not only are tours available, but there is a roadside beach to capture this work of art along the scenic harbor.
As a West Michigan native, my expectations of lighthouses are pretty high. The setting of Eagle Harbor's bright red house on the bay of Superior is just breathtaking!
390 inches of snow in just one winter? Yes, you read that right! Yooper winters are only for the
resilient.
“The cost of a thing is the amount of what I call life which is required to be exchanged for it, immediately or in the long run.”
— Henry David Thoreau
It’s safe to say that Mid-October was a perfect time to make the trip.
• Jampot is that mysterious bakery all the way at the northernmost tip of Michigan, run by friendly Monks. Don't hesitate to swing in; virtually everything here will light your taste buds on fire. Famous for the Thimbleberry Jam and Fruit Cake, they also have an array of brownies, pound cakes, truffles, and cookies.
I will forewarn patrons: select delicacies are spiced with Brandy, but give it a try! Jampot is a tiny bakery run by the friendly Monks of Keweenaw County. This place had a line out the door when we left, probably being the only business in this part of Michigan to do so. The jams, pound cake,s and truffles we bought were nothing short of a 5-star experience.
• Mt. Bohemia is the "Wild West" of U.P. Skiing/Snowboarding. With 300+ inches of snow annually, the ungroomed trails keep visitors coming back for more. Did I mention they have yurts!?
• Stop at Brickside Brewery! A former GoFundMe, this tiny brewery in Copper Harbor is as unique as they
come. The beer is tasty, and the locals add an element unmatched by any downstate bar!
• Peak colors for Keweenaw are earlier than the counties to the south. Lately, the second week of
October has been perfect; this can change annually.
• Keweenaw Adventure Company sits in downtown Copper Harbor. Known for guided Copper Harbor tours,
kayak trips, and mountain bike excursions, this is the place to go if you have a day to spend in the area.
• For those looking to someday head out to Isle Royale (myself included), the Isle Royale Queen IV sails out of Copper Harbor from May to September. A one-way trip consists of 3.5 hours on the Superior waters, but the investment is worthwhile (day trips are possible too). I hope to be writing about an Isle Royale trip
this time next year!
Lake Bailey proved to be a worthy stop on our tour, undisturbed and probably underfished!
-All photography done by Michelle Guilbault and Jake Hooker
